Side Streets Bratislava

Bratislava Castle, Redeux

Castles are not supposed to change colors, or at least that is what I had always assumed. Though, I am often mistaken, as I witness the ever present effects of change, this time in the form of Bratislava's castle (Bratislavský hrad), on the hill above the old city and the Danube River.

So I should not be surprised that the castle is now a shade of white? Biely.

Svatopluk I now greets castle visitors.

In addition to the castle's color change, a new statue has appeared as well, a figure from the region's past -- way past, back to the late 9th century. (Svatopluk I was an early medieval Moravian ruler.) And even the statue, though rather new, has undergone a bit of cosmetic surgery. Of course there is a story behind the color change and re-ornamentation, which goes beyond simple restoration. And it proves a lively discussion, if one chooses to casually broach the topic. It is a complex tale and I am sure I have not been able to grasp the entire scope of the forces at work or play, for this or broader issues -- the ever present, ever active active social, cultural, political currents which permeate human endeavors everywhere.

Perhaps the castle redeux is just that -- a hint of latent nationalism, fidgeting beneath the surface.

Bratislava Castle, before its reconstruction.

Bratislava's UFO

For better or worse, this is one of the visuals which is forever stamped into one's mind during a first visit to Bratislava. Previously known as the "New Bridge" (built to span the Danube in 1973), it's more commonly called the "UFO" -- perhaps official now given the name of the establishment which occupies the restaurant and observation deck on top. (For more information, visit the restaurant's website, www.redmonkeygroup.com). It certainly has an alien look to it. When I queried a few friends I was apologetically told, with a degree of local disdain, that the design was a "eye sore", the saucer-shaped restaurant was "awful" and therefore not worth my time. Of course, I then had to go and see for myself.

I went, and -- as instructed by the sign at the entrance to the elevator up -- I did watch, though I passed on the taste part. My experience has been these kinds of restaurants serve average food at much higher than average price. I could possibly be very wrong since the staff's dress, manner and the few plates I witnessed emerge from the kitchen were all upscale -- though my concern was confirmed by the prices listed on the menu. As for the groove part, one can't escape the pounding Euro-tech music which prevails just about in every public establishment in Central and Eastern Europe. Meaning, since I am a bit accustomed to it now, I was not bothered to groove.

I still wonder if it was worth the 6 EUR admittance fee for the elevator ride and the time spent on the observation deck. As I recount my mid-day visit, on a breezy summer afternoon, it was relaxing -- the views from inside the restaurant and the observation deck captivating. So I guess yes, at least once.

Note the placement of the music speakers throughout the restaurant.

The view upstream of the Danube River west, towards Vienna.

The view of the Danube River, looking east, downstream.

The view south, looking away from Bratislava towards Hungary.

The view north into Old Town Bratislava.

Autobusová Stanica, Bratislava

Anyone traveling in Europe who does not take advantage of public transportation pays a price -- economically and culturally. I rely on trains, buses and trams to get around, avoiding the cost and perceived convenience of a "for hire" car. I've rented or hired my share of cars and taxis abroad but now prefer public modes, since the one-hour bus ride between Vienna and Bratislava (about 35 miles or 55 kilometers) is much cheaper than a 15-minute cab ride in either city (several miles or kilometers in traffic).

Public transportation in Europe has evolved to a point of where it is a natural part of the land or cityscape -- using it is second nature.

For example, one can easily mistake Bratislava's bus station (autobusová stanica) for some other activity -- its plain functional façade hides the goings on inside and behind. (For the foreign observer, there are many similar buildings, providing shelter for an array of services, indistinguishable without a little investigation.) There is not a whole lot of glamour and glitz expended on such structures, though they do seem to operate well, and in the case of transportation, are very punctual. Of course, if one can read the local language, signs plainly say it all.

Recently I noticed that many of the inter city buses now have on board Wi-Fi (for the curious, checkout www.orangeways.com -- their buses appear to be very popular with the "backpacking, explorer, on to the next city" crowd). I was pleased to be able to pick up and surf the Internet while I was next to an Orangeway bus (obviously marked Wi-Fi capable).

Although the Vienna-Bratislava buses are not yet so equipped, they are decent and comfortable. Efficient.

Podhradie

Time is cruel to architectural periods. This is certainly true when considering the history of a part of Bratislava known as Podhradie. (Pod is literally translated as under, hrad as castle -- it is also noted in guides as the "outer bailey".) Podhradie is an area outside the old city walls to the west, on the foothill below Bratislava's castle. It was an independent town until 1851, though most of it surely succumbed to this incorporation and the construction of what is known as the New Bridge and its freeway in 1973. (There now is a newer bridge a short distance away downstream, recently completed.)

However, there are a few glimpses of what must have been -- the best example is the Good Sheperd House, a nicely preserved example of Rococo architecture. Its construction, under the auspices of a notable local builder, began in 1760 and was completed in 1765. Originally built with commercial intent at street level, with living quarters upstairs, the building now is a part of the Town Museum and houses an interesting collection of 17th to late 19th century clocks, most produced by local clockmakers.

It is also fitting that the builder's commercial intent remains -- the ground floor serves as a pub.

Spišský Hrad

On a few occasions, I have found myself in very unique European rural settings -- settings which beckon thoughts of what life must have been like there centuries before. The presence of massive ruins enhance this phenomenon. And where did the population go which required such massive fortification?

Later, if I did not seize the opportunity and explore those ruins, they resurface in my day dreams. Spišský Hrad is one of those which demands my return, better equipped with both acoutrements and time.

Standing above the north eastern Slovak town Spišské Podhradie and the village of Žehra, is one of the largest castle sites in Central Europe. Built in the 12th century, it was a regional political, administrative, economic and cultural center owned by Hungarian royalty.

Originally a Romanesque fortification, it enclosed a Romanesque palace and a three nave Romanesque-Gothic basilica. The castle was doubled in size in the 14th century and completely rebuilt rebuilt in the 15th century; another Gothic chapel was added. The castle was deserted in early 18th century and burned down in 1780.

It has been in ruin since. Magnificently so.

Democracy in the East

I am not sure if it is reassuring that democracy finds its messy way when and wherever it is put into practice. Here, recent political commentary I witnessed in the Slovak Republic on a temporary construction zone wall.

"Voters, thank you, you are awesome"

(Note the references to the USSR)





Bratislava's Hydrofoil

Most westerners who visit the former Eastern Bloc, skirting behind what was once known by Winston Churchill's tag as the Iron Curtain, expect to see a good degree of Soviet influence. That influence is rapidly fading as many of the former Warsaw Pact countries are now a part of NATO and the European Union. Yes, modernizing quickly to western standards.

However, there are a few surviving remnants. One of these, which daily navigates the Danube River between Bratislava and Vienna, is the Rocket Speedboat, a vintage Soviet-era built hydrofoil. Its labors originate at the Personal Ship Port at Bratislava's Fajnorovo Nabrezie Embankment and arrive at the Schiffstation Reichsbruecke at Handelskal 265. It's a 105 minute upstream journey from Bratislava to Vienna and a 90 minute downstream return (information, schedule and booking www.lod.sk).

Once observed, you'll immediately recognize the Soviet styling and the Soviet disregard for aesthetics -- in this case an absolute abundance of noise.

Ganymede's Fountain

I have lost track of how many disappointing travel tales I've encountered over the years, the retelling of an American's awful experience in Europe. Yes, there are similarities and differences -- the good, the bad, the ugly. No doubt we all have our own values and tastes -- and though Europe is different, I'm glad to be back on "the continent", to once again observe and partake.

Although, I must admit it is easy to miss the small things. I know of the Slovak National Theater and Opera House in Bratislava and have walked by it and its fountain many times. On this pleasant August day, I meandered a bit near the fountain -- trying to decide where and how to spend the afternoon -- and for the first time really paid attention to the theater's façade and its fountain.

The Slovak National Theater's Ganymede Fountain is a welcoming sight and I wonder if this is what its creator had in mind. He or she was a native Bratislavan and the fountain was sculpted sometime after the construction of the building began in 1885. Though I find Greek mythology rather disheveled, with alternate stories and interpretations, I do recall Ganymede's role as a symbol of eternal youth, immortality and the official cup bearer to the gods.

Perhaps in this time and place, Ganymede and his fountain are a symbol of local hospitality. Unfortunately, Bratislava is not favorably reviewed as are a Prague, Budapest or Vienna -- and it is often bypassed for more famed destinations.  It is a bit of a shame as there is a unique environment in Bratislava and most do not realize the area was once a favorite Hapsburg retreat.

I sense that subtle beckoning is still here, scattered about in small doses, awaiting discovery -- Ganymede's enduring gift. I certainly feel at ease to loiter here.

Le Cours Saleya

In Europe, one can find a public market in just about every village, town or city. Size does matter though when it comes to markets. The busy market in Nice, France, the Cours Saleya Flower Market, is no exception. Cours Saleya is a wonderful cornucopia of ripe produce, meats, nuts, spices, cheeses, breads and flowers. It is bordered by sidewalk cafés, souvenir, antique and art shops. Numerous streets, narrowly flanked by centuries-old pastel buildings, funnel locals and tourists into and out of the market.

The Cours Saleya is located at the heart of Nice's old town and it sits one block inland from the Quai des Etats-Unis, the renowned boulevard that parallels the vivid, blue waters of the Mediterranean Sea. Its present form and venue has been maintained for at least a century; and it has been the site of market activities since the Roman era. Cours Saleya opens early every day (6am-5pm) and it's a constant hive of activity, Tuesday through Sunday. On Mondays it transforms itself into a flea and antiques market.

On my first visit, I had to walk the entire market, end-to-end, just to get a grasp of its size and to assess if, when and how to shop Cours Saleya. My first impression was literally a blurred collage of market bustle. The aisles were a constant stream of locals and tourists. Yes, one can almost always pick out the tourists. Shuffling, gazing. Determined locals were squeezing in to size up goods -- touching, asking, selecting, paying. Vendors were pointing, explaining, weighing, calling for resupply. Children scattered about -- running, laughing, crying. Custodians sweeping, carrying away trash. Amongst the mix, Romas panhandling. Dogs barking. Produce and goods as far as I could see. Up close, I was particularly struck by the amount and variety of spices, peppers, and olives. And I could sense bartering, haggling -- intensifying as the day grew long.

At the far east end of the Cours Saleya, stands a large, impressive yellow house, the Palais Cais de Pierlas (1782). Address, No. 1. Although the building appears to be in disrepair, it seems quite fitting. For from here, looking out of his third floor window, Henri Matisse painted various views of the Baie des Anges. Therefore, the brilliant sights and sounds of Nice's market are most appropriate. And within the Palais's daylight shadows, the surrounding restaurants and cafés make a perfect vantage point from which to mentally paint imagines of Nice's strolling, shopping pedestrians.

At night, crowds take refuge in the ambiance of the Cours Saleya's numerous surrounding eateries. Day or night, the Cours Saleya is a relaxing, unique place to simply sit, chat. Sip cappuccino, espresso. Explore Nicois cuisine. It also beckons one to wander. Not just anywhere. Here.

Not all who wander are lost.

St. Stephen's Cathedral

Numerous times I have roamed inside, outside, and underneath St. Stephen’s Cathedral in Vienna, Austria. (Yes, there are catacombs beneath which date back to the era of the Black Plagues which devastated Europe -- and Vienna for that matter -- throughout the 14th century.) For the dedicated and patient observer, this religious icon has an overabundance of stories to tell.

St. Stephen's Cathedral (Stephansdom in German), the dominant structure of Vienna and her Stephansplatz, is more than a cathedral -- she is an enduring grand matriarch, for centuries hosting the seat of the Archbishop of Vienna and his Archdiocese. Given her Romanesque and Gothic prowess, St. Stephen's is a living monument not only to historic periods but to specific historic events.

St. Stephen’s was initiated primarily by Rudolph IV, one of the initial progenitors of the Habsburg dynasty. (Termed centuries later by historians as the Holy Roman Empire, did this unique family consider themselves either holy or Roman? Such questions fuel the engines which drive late night reading and debate.) It stands on the ruins of at least two earlier churches, the first being a parish church consecrated in the mid-12th century. Archaeological evidence suggests it stands on the site of a Roman cemetery, implying the site has had some form of religious significance for at least 2000 years -- if not longer.

By the way, Marcus Aurelius passed away in Vienna. His son Commodus was present and the dead Caesar was quickly cremated and deified. Could this act of ancient Roman pomp and circumstance have occurred on or near the site of the present cathedral? We’ll never know. We do know his ashes found their way back to and remained in Rome until it was sacked in 410 by the Visigoths -- lost forever to eternity.

Arguably, Stephansdom is a living monument to the evolution of at least a part of Christianity in Europe, albeit a millennium after the birth, death and resurrection of Christ. Its initial dedication was witnessed by German nobles who were departing on the Second Crusade; it also was the site of a rallying sermon to muster a later crusading effort to defend Christian Europe from Muslim invaders. (The Theresian Military Academy's chapel, just south of Vienna, contains Holy Land relics brought by returning crusaders.)

Perhaps ironically, St. Stephen's also served as the main watch tower and military command post for the defense of Fortress Vienna during both sieges by the Ottoman Turks (1529, 1683). Congratulations, Prince Eugene of Savoy, ye who liberated central Europe from 150 years of Ottoman occupation -- implications of which still surface as Turkey pursues European Union membership. Is not Austria's reluctance to accept Turkey's overtures to Europe then understandable? Outside the cathedral there is an 18th century statue depicting St. Francis triumphantly trampling a defeated Turk. Oh my. Did anyone bother to clear this with the founding Franciscan?

Later, as a few German nobles and their men were leaving Vienna in the spring of 1945, St. Stephen’s was ordered destroyed, to be left “in just debris and ashes”. Providence, however, was manifest in the form of an officer who refused to follow these orders -- due to either his reverent upbringing or a simple, honest intellect. Again, we'll never really know. Unfortunately, the cathedral's roof did collapse, alight, though most of its internal treasures were spared. Flames had spread from nearby shops and torched St. Stephen's roof, started by civilian looters during the interlude between fleeing German troops and advancing Russian forces.

It is interesting how Vienna managed to spare most of its historic icons during the war -- Eugene of Savoy's massive statue at Heldenplatz was encased in brick to avoid damage from Allied bombing raids; Fredrick III's sarcophagus inside St. Stephan’s was also provided such protection. Someone was apparently aware that intentional human destruction permeates and dominates the world's historical record.

St. Stephen's is also a cultural casserole -- over time various local influences have left their mark, such as common modern graffiti. Building stones from unknown Roman structures were used and are visible in the oldest parts of the cathedral (the two Roman towers and the west wall). Over the main entrance to the church, the Giant’s Door (Riesentor), there once hung a mastodon bone. (Where did that come from?) A zodiac adorns the main facade. There are official measuring standards, used during the Middle Ages to set local standards for merchants, embedded in the external walls. The cathedral's largest and main bell was cast from captured Ottoman cannons. And the handrail of the stairway leading up to the stone pulpit is adorned with biting lizards and toads, symbolizing the struggle of good against evil. At the top, a dog guards those that are in place to preach. (I'm still trying to sort through the numerous symbols found in St. Stephen's -- to include the grim skeletal representations apparently borne of the bleak plague period.) St. Stephen's was also Mozart's parish church at the end of his life -- he was married, two of his children were baptized, and his funeral was conducted here. He also served as an adjunct parish music director.

Christendom’s cathedrals are historic and best placed in context. In my opinion, St. Stephen's is one of the best. Grasping historic context, however, is a tremendous challenge. As I have often sat in a St. Stephen's pew, I am occasionally drawn to reflect upon the meaning and context of Jesus' 1st century pronouncement of the Kingdom of Heaven -- and the enduring theological, political and cultural struggles between those who accept, reject or reinterpret Jesus' core message.

For me, St. Stephen's is a complex, physical manifestation of this ongoing social phenomenon. I highly recommend you give exploring this cathedral a "go".

Seek and ponder historical context.

La Boqueria

I make it a point to visit a European market place every chance I get. Obviously in larger cities, there are often more than one. Barcelona's most popular market is the market of Saint Joseph, or La Boqueria.

My first impression was this has to be one of the Europe's busiest living monuments. Its interesting 19th century architecture, a structure of glass and iron, creates an environment in which one knows he or she can find just about anything. Or at least wander, loiter and enjoy trying.

La Boqueria is situated halfway between Plaza Cataluyna, Barcelona's main travel hub, and its port. The massive amounts of fresh seafood are just a pronouncement of locale -- this is Spain and the Mediterranean is close. Today's catch abounds -- partake. It is also located along the pedestrian corridor, Las Ramblas, where one can witness a variety of shops, to include street performers. For tourists.

The uniqueness of La Boqueria is while most locals seem to avoid the tourist-oriented Las Ramblas, they frequent La Boqueria. This is an authentic, functional market with side and back alley entrances. Convenient, essential, fascinating.

This is another European market one should not miss. It truly is a separate world unto itself.