Side Streets Bratislava

Bratislava Castle, Redeux

Castles are not supposed to change colors, or at least that is what I had always assumed. Though, I am often mistaken, as I witness the ever present effects of change, this time in the form of Bratislava's castle (Bratislavský hrad), on the hill above the old city and the Danube River.

So I should not be surprised that the castle is now a shade of white. Biely.

Svatopluk I now greets castle visitors.

In addition to the castle's color change, a new statue has appeared as well, a figure from the region's past -- way past, back to the late 9th century. (Svatopluk I was an early medieval Moravian ruler.) And even the statue, though rather new, has undergone a bit of cosmetic surgery. Of course there is a story behind the color change and re-ornamentation, which goes beyond simple restoration. And it proves a lively discussion, if one chooses to casually broach the topic. It is a complex tale and I am sure I have not been able to grasp the entire scope of the forces at work or play, for this or broader issues -- the ever present, ever active active social, cultural, political currents which permeate human endeavors everywhere.

Perhaps the castle redeux is just that -- a hint of latent nationalism, fidgeting beneath the surface.

Bratislava Castle, before its reconstruction.

Somewhere in Austria

Another day, another train ride, alone. Unintentionally ... bogart ...

Bratislava's UFO

For better or worse, this is one of the visuals which is forever stamped into one's mind during a first visit to Bratislava. Previously known as the "New Bridge" (built to span the Danube in 1973), it's more commonly called the "UFO" -- perhaps official now given the name of the establishment which occupies the restaurant and observation deck on top. (For more information, visit the restaurant's website, www.redmonkeygroup.com). It certainly has an alien look to it. When I queried a few friends I was apologetically told, with a degree of local disdain, that the design was a "eye sore", the saucer-shaped restaurant was "awful" and therefore not worth my time. Of course, I then had to go and see for myself.

I went, and -- as instructed by the sign at the entrance to the elevator up -- I did watch, though I passed on the taste part. My experience has been these kinds of restaurants serve average food at much higher than average price. I could possibly be very wrong since the staff's dress, manner and the few plates I witnessed emerge from the kitchen were all upscale -- though my concern was confirmed by the prices listed on the menu. As for the groove part, one can't escape the pounding Euro-tech music which prevails just about in every public establishment in Central and Eastern Europe. Meaning, since I am a bit accustomed to it now, I was not bothered to groove.

I still wonder if it was worth the 6 EUR admittance fee for the elevator ride and the time spent on the observation deck. As I recount my mid-day visit, on a breezy summer afternoon, it was relaxing -- the views from inside the restaurant and the observation deck captivating. So I guess yes, at least once.

Note the placement of the music speakers throughout the restaurant.

The view upstream of the Danube River west, towards Vienna.

The view of the Danube River, looking east, downstream.

The view south, looking away from Bratislava towards Hungary.

The view north into Old Town Bratislava.

Autobusová Stanica, Bratislava

Anyone traveling in Europe who does not take advantage of public transportation pays a price -- economically and culturally. I rely on trains, buses and trams to get around, avoiding the cost and perceived convenience of a "for hire" car. I've rented or hired my share of cars and taxis abroad but now prefer public modes, since the one-hour bus ride between Vienna and Bratislava (about 35 miles or 55 kilometers) is much cheaper than a 15-minute cab ride in either city (several miles or kilometers in traffic).

Public transportation in Europe has evolved to a point of where it is a natural part of the land or cityscape -- using it is second nature.

For example, one can easily mistake Bratislava's bus station (autobusová stanica) for some other activity -- its plain functional façade hides the goings on inside and behind. (For the foreign observer, there are many similar buildings, providing shelter for an array of services, indistinguishable without a little investigation.) There is not a whole lot of glamour and glitz expended on such structures, though they do seem to operate well, and in the case of transportation, are very punctual. Of course, if one can read the local language, signs plainly say it all.

Recently I noticed that many of the inter city buses now have on board Wi-Fi (for the curious, checkout www.orangeways.com -- their buses appear to be very popular with the "backpacking, explorer, on to the next city" crowd). I was pleased to be able to pick up and surf the Internet while I was next to an Orangeway bus (obviously marked Wi-Fi capable).

Although the Vienna-Bratislava buses are not yet so equipped, they are decent and comfortable. Efficient.

Podhradie

Time is cruel to architectural periods. This is certainly true when considering the history of a part of Bratislava known as Podhradie. (Pod is literally translated as under, hrad as castle -- it is also noted in guides as the "outer bailey".) Podhradie is an area outside the old city walls to the west, on the foothill below Bratislava's castle. It was an independent town until 1851, though most of it surely succumbed to this incorporation and the construction of what is known as the New Bridge and its freeway in 1973. (There now is a newer bridge a short distance away downstream, recently completed.)

However, there are a few glimpses of what must have been -- the best example is the Good Sheperd House, a nicely preserved example of Rococo architecture. Its construction, under the auspices of a notable local builder, began in 1760 and was completed in 1765. Originally built with commercial intent at street level, with living quarters upstairs, the building now is a part of the Town Museum and houses an interesting collection of 17th to late 19th century clocks, most produced by local clockmakers.

It is also fitting that the builder's commercial intent remains -- the ground floor serves as a pub.

Democracy in the East

I am not sure if it is reassuring that democracy finds its messy way when and wherever it is put into practice. Here, recent political commentary I witnessed in the Slovak Republic on a temporary construction zone wall.

"Voters, thank you, you are awesome"

(Note the references to the USSR)

Bratislava's Hydrofoil

Most westerners who visit the former Eastern Bloc, skirting behind what was once known by Winston Churchill's tag as the Iron Curtain, expect to see a good degree of Soviet influence. That influence is rapidly fading as many of the former Warsaw Pact countries are now a part of NATO and the European Union. Yes, modernizing quickly to western standards.

However, there are a few surviving remnants. One of these, which daily navigates the Danube River between Bratislava and Vienna, is the Rocket Speedboat, a vintage Soviet-era built hydrofoil. Its labors originate at the Personal Ship Port at Bratislava's Fajnorovo Nabrezie Embankment and arrive at the Schiffstation Reichsbruecke at Handelskal 265. It's a 105 minute upstream journey from Bratislava to Vienna and a 90 minute downstream return (information, schedule and booking www.lod.sk).

Once observed, you'll immediately recognize the Soviet styling and the Soviet disregard for aesthetics -- in this case an absolute abundance of noise.

Ganymede's Fountain

I have lost track of how many disappointing travel tales I've encountered over the years, the retelling of an American's awful experience in Europe. Yes, there are similarities and differences -- the good, the bad, the ugly. No doubt we all have our own values and tastes -- and though Europe is different, I'm glad to be back on "the continent", to once again observe and partake.

Although, I must admit it is easy to miss the small things. I know of the Slovak National Theater and Opera House in Bratislava and have walked by it and its fountain many times. On this pleasant August day, I meandered a bit near the fountain -- trying to decide where and how to spend the afternoon -- and for the first time really paid attention to the theater's façade and its fountain.

The Slovak National Theater's Ganymede Fountain is a welcoming sight and I wonder if this is what its creator had in mind. He or she was a native Bratislavan and the fountain was sculpted sometime after the construction of the building began in 1885. Though I find Greek mythology rather disheveled, with alternate stories and interpretations, I do recall Ganymede's role as a symbol of eternal youth, immortality and the official cup bearer to the gods.

Perhaps in this time and place, Ganymede and his fountain are a symbol of local hospitality. Unfortunately, Bratislava is not favorably reviewed as are a Prague, Budapest or Vienna -- and it is often bypassed for more famed destinations.  It is a bit of a shame as there is a unique environment in Bratislava and most do not realize the area was once a favorite Hapsburg retreat.

I sense that subtle beckoning is still here, scattered about in small doses, awaiting discovery -- Ganymede's enduring gift. I certainly feel at ease to loiter here.