The Cours Saleya is located at the heart of Nice's old town and it sits one block inland from the Quai des Etats-Unis, the renowned boulevard that parallels the vivid, blue waters of the Mediterranean Sea. Its present form and venue has been maintained for at least a century; and it has been the site of market activities since the Roman era. Cours Saleya opens early every day (6am-5pm) and it's a constant hive of activity, Tuesday through Sunday. On Mondays it transforms itself into a flea and antiques market.
On my first visit, I had to walk the entire market, end-to-end, just to get a grasp of its size and to assess if, when and how to shop Cours Saleya. My first impression was literally a blurred collage of market bustle. The aisles were a constant stream of locals and tourists. Yes, one can almost always pick out the tourists. Shuffling, gazing. Determined locals were squeezing in to size up goods -- touching, asking, selecting, paying. Vendors were pointing, explaining, weighing, calling for resupply. Children scattered about -- running, laughing, crying. Custodians sweeping, carrying away trash. Amongst the mix, Romas panhandling. Dogs barking. Produce and goods as far as I could see. Up close, I was particularly struck by the amount and variety of spices, peppers, and olives. And I could sense bartering, haggling -- intensifying as the day grew long.
At the far east end of the Cours Saleya, stands a large, impressive yellow house, the Palais Cais de Pierlas (1782). Address, No. 1. Although the building appears to be in disrepair, it seems quite fitting. For from here, looking out of his third floor window, Henri Matisse painted various views of the Baie des Anges. Therefore, the brilliant sights and sounds of Nice's market are most appropriate. And within the Palais's daylight shadows, the surrounding restaurants and cafés make a perfect vantage point from which to mentally paint imagines of Nice's strolling, shopping pedestrians.
At night, crowds take refuge in the ambiance of the Cours Saleya's numerous surrounding eateries. Day or night, the Cours Saleya is a relaxing, unique place to simply sit, chat. Sip cappuccino, espresso. Explore Nicois cuisine. It also beckons one to wander. Not just anywhere. Here.
Not all who wander are lost.
