There are a whole bunch of people in Bangkok. Locals and tourists. Without doubt, it is Asia’s dominant tourist hot-spot. And by sheer numbers, it must be in the top tier of the world’s most visited destinations. It is also a large air hub, meaning that it’s the region's major tourist gateway. I spent a few days there as a transient while I worked my visa to Vietnam -- a common practice.
Allow me to briefly mention the negatives, for they’re unavoidable. Bangkok’s reputation is famously soiled by its seedier side, even though prostitution is technically illegal there. Rocker Billy Idol’s three-week, $250,000 excursion into hedonism dramatically ended with his forced ejection from Bangkok, carried out by the Thai Army. Addicted to lust, he had refused to vacate his hotel penthouse at the end of his reservation. The good news is that even in Bangkok, there are limits. The other bad news is that Bangkok’s traffic is horrendous. Air and water pollution are major issues -- the water table has also been depleted. Droughts are common. Filth.
Yet, Bangkok is an alluring paradox. It’s perhaps the Orient's most cosmopolitan city; but it seemingly has preserved its cultural heritage. Its urban pace is somewhat relaxed, despite its 20 million-plus population and congested traffic. Religion does not appear to have an influential role in the capital; but one can observe monks walking neighborhoods, collecting alms. I did. And Buddhist temples are scattered throughout the city.
Although this was my first brief introduction to Thai culture, I quickly learned that for Thais, the head is sacred and the foot is foul. Don't point with your foot. Don’t ever step over a person or food. I was advised to never touch anyone on the head, even a child; do not pat people on the back or shoulders; always give up your seat on a bus or train to a monk who is standing; never walk in front of praying Thais in a temple; and beckoning is done with the palm down, fingers waved toward the body. Okay, what else? Are such stark cultural differences captivating?
I read Herman Hesse’s Siddhartha (1922) and Steppenwolf (1927) in school. Hesse’s literary works reveal his fascination with India, Buddhism and an individual's search for spirituality outside of society. Gautama Siddhartha (563-483 BC), The Buddha or the Awakened One, certainly had influenced Hesse's life and writings. As achieving Nirvana is esoteric, cloistered or removed, I expected to find Buddha's influence on Thai culture to be relatively subtle. Thailand has traditionally been characterized by its tolerance for alien religions. I'd expect it to be there, but where? Seek and find. Was this my academic preparation for Bangkok?
What is interesting is that Thailand's religious diversity is literally nonexistent. Roughly 95 percent of the population observes the oldest surviving form of Buddhism (Theravāda, founded in India). The remaining four percent of the population is Muslim, with a fractional mix of other religions, to include Christianity. Therefore, Buddhism permeates Thai culture and its temples are key social and educational institutions -- functioning as school, hospital, dispensary, hostelry, employment and community center. Although there were tourists present, the temples I visited were alive with various locally-oriented activities. Its traditionally high literacy rate, particularly before universal education, was obviously due to temple education.
Adherents to the Theravāda school consider themselves followers of the form closest to Buddhism as it was originally practiced. The spiritual liberation of the individual is its primary focus. Pursuit of the law of Karma. Individuals are considered responsible for their own actions and destiny -- everyone has a specific place. Undertake meritorious acts, avoid those which earn demerits. Cause and effect. Perform this role with a minimum of fuss and hassle. Failure to do so involves a loss of personal dignity -- loss of face. Thais often employ the phrase "never mind or no worries" (mâi pen rai), as a reminder not to risk opposing that which should not be opposed. Find your place, stay there, perform. Lock step.
At some point in their lives, Thai males are expected to train as Buddhist monks. It is a prerequisite for many leadership positions within Thai communities. Likewise, temporary ordination is the norm. The Thai government even allows its civil servants to take fully paid leave to train as monks for three months. And most do at some point -- whether it is for a single rainy season (phansa in Thai) or a few years. During the annual rains, all monks fore go travel and cloister in monasteries. And after this period, most young monks return to lay life, marry and begin families. Young Thai men who reach monastic ordination are viewed as more suitable marriage partners. As a matter of fact, those ordained are referred to as "cooked;" the un-ordained are called "raw." It is as if social position is the result of nurtured karma, not personal achievement. Learn, practice. Here, Siddharthas abound.
Perhaps I had discovered a parallel irresistibility to this place, in the tradition of Hesse -- hopefully for the right reasons. Though I had a basic academic understanding of Buddhism, I think that I had stumbled upon a more practical Buddha. Buddhism's strength in Thailand is linked to the fact that practically all Thai families have at least one ordained male member; its popular form also incorporates elements of Brahmanism, animism, and ancestor worship. What is learned outside of society is carefully integrated within society.I have to remind myself often that the real lessons in life happen outside the classroom. Academia is static and sterile.
Oh, and the shopping was good.
