Monday, January 25, 2016

Charles Bridge

My latest visit to Prague was mostly spent indoors as I was forced to plan my activities carefully, to avoid prolonged exposure to the ever present ice cold wind.

I made one exception, which was to linger on and around Charles Bridge (Karlův most), an exquisite example of medieval architecture. For centuries, as the only bridge which crossed the Vltava River in Prague, it is still guarded by three bridge towers, two of them of Romanesque influence on the Lesser Quarter side, the third a magnificent Gothic tower on the old town side.




If one is aware of the history of the bridge, it is a unique experience to pause and examine the Gothic tower close up, noting the coats of arms of the countries governed during the reign of Charles IV, as well as the statues of St. Vitus, Charles IV, Wenceslas IV, St. Vojtech (Adalbert) and Sigmund. It is here, if one can imagine a scene from 1621, that 27 severed heads belonging to noble leaders of what is known as the Bohemian Revolt, were displayed as a reminder of the consequence of armed opposition to authority. The executions took place only a short distance away in the Old Town Square, on what is referred to by the Czechs as their "Day of Blood" -- one can find their memorial in brick there. This was a key moment in the Thirty Years War (1618-1648), which led to the Peace of Westphalia and the beginning of our modern international political system.



Today, between the towers, the bridge is adorned with 30 Baroque style statues (with a few exceptions), originally erected in the 1700s, now all replaced by replicas. It is remarkable this bridge has survived numerous floods, erosion, battles, and progress -- a venue for public transportation from horse and electric trams, to bus and other vehicular traffic. Since its last restoration began in 1965, the bridge has remained a pedestrian venue.