European Christmas markets have been ongoing for centuries. Bratislava's is relatively new, having emerged in the last decade. It's small, cozy and less commercial than larger affairs. There's merchandise to consider but it's the traditional Slovak food and drink which dominates Blava's Centrum and nurtures the festivities. Grilled meats, sausages. Kebabs. Lokse. Potato pancakes, filled with poppy-seed and sweet honey-wine. Or with goose liver, with cabbage. Môžu mať aj inú klobásu, pa prosím? Mňam, mňam!