Romas

If you travel to Central or Eastern Europe, you're bound to encounter the Romani. Though they are involved in a number of trades, family or clan teams work the streets in tourist areas -- begging, performing, selling.

Romas, or Gypsies, are a nomadic people originally from the Punjab region of India. They entered Europe early on in the Middle Ages, migrating through Persia, Asia Minor, and the Balkans. They were labeled "Gypsies" because Europeans mistakenly thought they were Egyptian. For centuries they've been treated as pariahs, weathering hardship, persecution, and genocide (Holocaust). And they generally appear to live in squalor.

One learns quickly not to reward Roma beggars -- a token given attracts a horde. A nuisance unwilling to leave empty handed. On the other hand, Roma merchandisers are at least amusing. They'll haggle a bit then move on for more peddling -- whether one buys or not. On this particular afternoon in Plovdiv, Bulgaria, our group was approached by two Romas, offering Rado watches for $5. Fakes, of course. Indulge us a bit, please -- $1? Okay, $2.

Mine ran for five minutes and then fell apart the next day.

Expected. Entertained.

Bulgarian Omen

The ancient Romans believed that the eagle was a messenger of the gods -- eagle sightings and behavior were therefore considered omens. At Nessebar, Bulgaria, on the Black Sea, I encountered a similar omen. This one was delivered by a seagull. Good, bad? One of our Bulgarian hosts noted that it was a sign of good luck, mentioning something about his brother's marriage. I took it as strong direction to buy a new shirt.

Bulgarian Rail

I have always had an affinity for travel by rail. Particularly in Europe. It's regular and the schedule is generally robust. Going from one place to another is calculated and there is time to sight see, relax, read. Or whatever. And it is generally inexpensive. Perhaps there is a degree of nostalgia attached. Grand tour. Or blame Hollywood.

The Orient Express.

Unfortunately, the original, running from Paris to Istanbul is long gone. Just imagine the possibilities of such a trip. And with the Channel Tunnel open, one could begin in London, train across to Paris. Eat, shop, see, converse. Then to points east -- Istanbul. Explore, discover. Return. There is a current Orient, but it runs overnight from Strasbourg to Vienna. Only. The original Orient was certainly replaced by more efficient commercial air. That said, the current European rail system is an excellent way to go from one destination to another. Anywhere.

For me, traveling by rail in the former Warsaw Pact had a special appeal. I had ridden the underground rail system in West Berlin which went unencumbered into the Eastern Sector. Miss your stop and you're now in a James Bond movie. Focus. My papers were in order. I got off at my appointed stop, survived. All told, it worked nicely.

Bulgaria was no exception.

These two engines or tanks, from different generations, are sitting in the rail yard at the Plovdiv Depot.

This is the routine Sofia-Plovdiv service, arriving in Plovdiv.

This is the Sofia-Slanchev Bryag (Sunny Beach Resort) Express which transits Plovdiv and Bourgas, preparing to depart the main Sophia Rail Station.

It is a shame that rail service in the United States is not as common or reliable. Or as cheap. Or that our lifestyle does not accommodate such a transportation system.
At what price?

Seville's Holy Week

Witnessing a Spanish festival for the first time is a most unique experience, as most festival elements and events are unfamiliar. Seville's Holy Week -- given the hooded processions of Catholic brotherhoods, Nazarenos -- was no different.

Semana Santa en Sevilla is one of Spain's largest religious events. Conducted during the week between Palm Sunday and Easter, it features daily processions by brotherhoods parading pasos -- floats featuring sculptured scenes of Jesus Christ during distinct phases of his death and resurrection; the other being a float with a grieving Virgin Mary. Many are considered masterful works of art and are housed in nearby churches.

Semana Santa en Sevilla is one of Spain's largest religious events. Conducted during the week between Palm Sunday and Easter, it features daily processions by brotherhoods parading pasos -- floats featuring sculptured scenes of Jesus Christ during distinct phases of his death and resurrection; the other being a float with a grieving Virgin Mary. Many are considered centuries-old masterful works of art and are housed throughout the year in neighborhood churches. Most brotherhoods carry two floats, a few carry three. The processions are organized and conducted by over 50 religious fraternities (some dating back to the 14th century) and the processional itinerary is scheduled by a Supreme Council of Brotherhoods. During the processions, members dressed in hooded penitential robes, precede the pasos, with an occasional brass band accompanying the march. The processions work along the shortest route from their home church to the Cathedral of Seville -- routes decreed since the 17th century by the processions' rule of ordinances. They then return to their points of origin, some taking over 12 hours.

If you're in need of a touring tip, the first part of Seville's Holy Week is not as crowded for procession viewing and is more relaxed. Towards the end of the week as many as a million spectators crowd Seville's streets. The climax of the week is Thursday night when the most popular processions set out to arrive at the cathedral on the dawn of Good Friday.

I still find myself comparing this tradition with some darker elements of America's past -- and the influence and context of signs and symbols, proliferating one's culture. Comparing American and Spanish cultures, the hooded parading participant signifies a very different role and purpose -- penitence not malfeasance. In this case, the shame is on us.