Friday, April 15, 2011

Seville's Holy Week

Witnessing a Spanish festival for the first time is a most unique experience, as most festival elements and events are unfamiliar. Seville's Holy Week -- given the hooded processions of Catholic brotherhoods, Nazarenos -- was no different.

Semana Santa en Sevilla is one of Spain's largest religious events. Conducted during the week between Palm Sunday and Easter, it features daily processions by brotherhoods parading pasos -- floats featuring sculptured scenes of Jesus Christ during distinct phases of his death and resurrection; the other being a float with a grieving Virgin Mary. Many are considered masterful works of art and are housed in nearby churches.

Semana Santa en Sevilla is one of Spain's largest religious events. Conducted during the week between Palm Sunday and Easter, it features daily processions by brotherhoods parading pasos -- floats featuring sculptured scenes of Jesus Christ during distinct phases of his death and resurrection; the other being a float with a grieving Virgin Mary. Many are considered centuries-old masterful works of art and are housed throughout the year in neighborhood churches. Most brotherhoods carry two floats, a few carry three. The processions are organized and conducted by over 50 religious fraternities (some dating back to the 14th century) and the processional itinerary is scheduled by a Supreme Council of Brotherhoods. During the processions, members dressed in hooded penitential robes, precede the pasos, with an occasional brass band accompanying the march. The processions work along the shortest route from their home church to the Cathedral of Seville -- routes decreed since the 17th century by the processions' rule of ordinances. They then return to their points of origin, some taking over 12 hours.

If you're in need of a touring tip, the first part of Seville's Holy Week is not as crowded for procession viewing and is more relaxed. Towards the end of the week as many as a million spectators crowd Seville's streets. The climax of the week is Thursday night when the most popular processions set out to arrive at the cathedral on the dawn of Good Friday.

I still find myself comparing this tradition with some darker elements of America's past -- and the influence and context of signs and symbols, proliferating one's culture. Comparing American and Spanish cultures, the hooded parading participant signifies a very different role and purpose -- penitence not malfeasance. In this case, the shame is on us.