Wednesday, June 1, 2011

Rome's Pantheon

For me, it was not easy to realize the Pantheon is the oldest standing domed structure in Rome. It is in remarkably good shape for its age -- the original structure is over 2000 years old -- and it remains the largest un-reinforced concrete dome in the world. The credit goes to Roman architects and engineers and their expert use of concrete coffering.


The Pantheon's coffers, employed to lighten the weight of the dome, were poured in molds prior to being set in place; the oculus further reduces the structure's weight and admits the building's only light. The oculus also cools and ventilates the Pantheon. As one stands inside and admires the dome, it is natural to ponder the effects of bad weather. The Pantheon’s builders anticipated this phenomenon -- a drainage system below the floor handles any intruding rainfall.

Built in 31 BC during the reign of Augustus, it originally was a temple dedicated to all the gods of Ancient Rome (hence the name pantheon). It was restored in the second century AD after being completely destroyed by fire in 80 AD. The building's consecration as a Roman Catholic church in the 7th century certainly saved it from the abandonment, destruction and decay which befell the majority of ancient Rome's buildings during the Middle Ages.

Fortunately, the marble interior and the great bronze doors have survived. Sadly, as is common with ancient structures, most of the external marble was removed over the centuries. The bronze ceiling of the portico disappeared. The sunken coffers may have contained some form of bronze ornamentation. There are even capitals from the Pantheon in the British Museum. Carried away, now held hostage.

It is interesting how our mental images of the past are influenced by modern observation of an ancient structure’s skeletal remains. Some of these sites have elements which survive apart, scattered in various museums and private collections throughout the world. Can we not return surviving antiquities to their places of origin, restore at least a part of their long lost splendor? How does one undo events in the past which we would not allow today? History cannot be undone one way or another, even if rewritten. Still, the present does offer the opportunity to address such situations.

Most discussions ultimately are about time, solutions never seriously broached. Certainly this is one real Pandora's Box -- realized at a nearby café, as hordes of pigeons settle and shift, traffic noise and children's voices echo about, and the march of Prada and Gucci keeps perfect time in the shadow of Imperial Rome. A street performer stops to invade, playing a guitar missing at least one string. Pay and rescue the moment -- please move along and rejoin the parade.

Time for another espresso -- posso avere un espresso, per favore.