Podhradie

Time is cruel to architectural periods. This is certainly true when considering the history of a part of Bratislava known as Podhradie. (Pod is literally translated as under, hrad as castle -- it is also noted in guides as the "outer bailey".) Podhradie is an area outside the old city walls to the west, on the foothill below Bratislava's castle. It was an independent town until 1851, though most of it surely succumbed to this incorporation and the construction of what is known as the New Bridge and its freeway in 1973. (There now is a newer bridge a short distance away downstream, recently completed.)

However, there are a few glimpses of what must have been -- the best example is the Good Sheperd House, a nicely preserved example of Rococo architecture. Its construction, under the auspices of a notable local builder, began in 1760 and was completed in 1765. Originally built with commercial intent at street level, with living quarters upstairs, the building now is a part of the Town Museum and houses an interesting collection of 17th to late 19th century clocks, most produced by local clockmakers.

It is also fitting that the builder's commercial intent remains -- the ground floor serves as a pub.

Spišský Hrad

On a few occasions, I have found myself in very unique European rural settings -- settings which beckon thoughts of what life must have been like there centuries before. The presence of massive ruins enhance this phenomenon. And where did the population go which required such massive fortification?

Later, if I did not seize the opportunity and explore those ruins, they resurface in my day dreams. Spišský Hrad is one of those which demands my return, better equipped with both acoutrements and time.

Standing above the north eastern Slovak town Spišské Podhradie and the village of Žehra, is one of the largest castle sites in Central Europe. Built in the 12th century, it was a regional political, administrative, economic and cultural center owned by Hungarian royalty.

Originally a Romanesque fortification, it enclosed a Romanesque palace and a three nave Romanesque-Gothic basilica. The castle was doubled in size in the 14th century and completely rebuilt rebuilt in the 15th century; another Gothic chapel was added. The castle was deserted in early 18th century and burned down in 1780.

It has been in ruin since. Magnificently so.

Democracy in the East

I am not sure if it is reassuring that democracy finds its messy way when and wherever it is put into practice. Here, recent political commentary I witnessed in the Slovak Republic on a temporary construction zone wall.

"Voters, thank you, you are awesome"

(Note the references to the USSR)