Bratislava's Hydrofoil

Most westerners who visit the former Eastern Bloc, skirting behind what was once known by Winston Churchill's tag as the Iron Curtain, expect to see a good degree of Soviet influence. That influence is rapidly fading as many of the former Warsaw Pact countries are now a part of NATO and the European Union. Yes, modernizing quickly to western standards.

However, there are a few surviving remnants. One of these, which daily navigates the Danube River between Bratislava and Vienna, is the Rocket Speedboat, a vintage Soviet-era built hydrofoil. Its labors originate at the Personal Ship Port at Bratislava's Fajnorovo Nabrezie Embankment and arrive at the Schiffstation Reichsbruecke at Handelskal 265. It's a 105 minute upstream journey from Bratislava to Vienna and a 90 minute downstream return (information, schedule and booking www.lod.sk).

Once observed, you'll immediately recognize the Soviet styling and the Soviet disregard for aesthetics -- in this case an absolute abundance of noise.

Ganymede's Fountain

I have lost track of how many disappointing travel tales I've encountered over the years, the retelling of an American's awful experience in Europe. Yes, there are similarities and differences -- the good, the bad, the ugly. No doubt we all have our own values and tastes -- and though Europe is different, I'm glad to be back on "the continent", to once again observe and partake.

Although, I must admit it is easy to miss the small things. I know of the Slovak National Theater and Opera House in Bratislava and have walked by it and its fountain many times. On this pleasant August day, I meandered a bit near the fountain -- trying to decide where and how to spend the afternoon -- and for the first time really paid attention to the theater's façade and its fountain.

The Slovak National Theater's Ganymede Fountain is a welcoming sight and I wonder if this is what its creator had in mind. He or she was a native Bratislavan and the fountain was sculpted sometime after the construction of the building began in 1885. Though I find Greek mythology rather disheveled, with alternate stories and interpretations, I do recall Ganymede's role as a symbol of eternal youth, immortality and the official cup bearer to the gods.

Perhaps in this time and place, Ganymede and his fountain are a symbol of local hospitality. Unfortunately, Bratislava is not favorably reviewed as are a Prague, Budapest or Vienna -- and it is often bypassed for more famed destinations.  It is a bit of a shame as there is a unique environment in Bratislava and most do not realize the area was once a favorite Hapsburg retreat.

I sense that subtle beckoning is still here, scattered about in small doses, awaiting discovery -- Ganymede's enduring gift. I certainly feel at ease to loiter here.