Weihnachtsmärkte Wien

Europe's Christmas markets are well worth experiencing. I'm tempted to list what I consider the best, say of five, maybe ten. But the more that I've pondered this approach, the more I am convinced that each is unique enough to simply to invite you to the nearest one.

Vienna's was my first. I noticed from a distance that its City Hall (Rathaus) was literally a giant Advent calendar, with corresponding numbered windows -- curtained. Beginning on the the 1st of December, the appropriate covering is removed, revealing a Christmas scene. This obviously continues until the 24th -- I could see the centrally located "24". I had to move in for a closer look. I discovered that this Christkindlmarkt is the larger, more commercial of Vienna's numerous Christmas markets.

Yes, there are more -- many more.

Somewhere in Austria

Another day, another train ride. Alone. Unintentionally, Bogart.

Wien Architecture (1)

Common period architecture, often viewed in Central Europe, this nice example in Wien's centrum.

I think I could manage with a bit of Baroque.

Bratislava Architecture (2)

And then there's the, well -- the functional.

Bratislava Architecture (1)

Often, one stumbles across a grand façade, begging restoration -- this one in Bratislava's Old Town. 



Street Sign Wien

Straßenschild in Wien -- Siren.

Street Performers, Wien

Vienna's street performers can be quite entertaining. On a typical day, rows of silver or gold Victorian statue performers decorate Stephansplatz. Puppet, magic shows, break dancers dispersed. Vying for attention. Timing their performances against each other. Some acts quite good, others a little cheesy. But every crowd acknowledged to have been the best. Tips, please. No pictures without compensation. Thank you.

Out and About, Vienna's Volksgarten

I have often found myself taking a respite on the steps of this temple in Vienna's Volksgarten.

More in line with the timing of Greek Revival architecture, this temple is a neo-classical reproduction of the Temple of Hephaestus in Athens (or the Theseus). Built in the center of Vienna's Volksgarten in the early 1800s, the park was created after Napoleon demolished a bastion near the imperial palace and the temple was added shortly thereafter. The park was further expanded later when Vienna's city fortifications were torn down, replaced by the Ringstraße.

The temple's central location is a natural place to meet, or loiter in transit from one Vienna site to another -- or simply a convenient stop to nibble on a packed lunch. It is a type of theater on the Ringstraße during nice days and evenings, with many of Vienna's landmark buildings in plain view.

Over time, as can be expected, this structure has witnessed change. The temple originally held a magnificent marble sculpture by Venetian artist Antonio Canova, Theseus Fighting the Centaur. The sculpture was removed for some reason in the 1890s, perhaps for safe keeping. It is now a welcoming feature in the Kunsthistorisches Museum nearby. Today, a simple bronze statue, Young Athlete (1921), draws the attention of admirers, the curious -- and occasionally performs as a poster board for late night gatherings and entertainment venues.

The most recent cosmetic renovation is now complete -- the raw stone, covered, painted white. Like most change, I am not sure what to think. Only time, and a few more visits -- hours sitting, watching -- will tell.

Out and About, Vienna's Ringstraße

I enjoy strolls along Vienna's Ringstraße for many reasons. The attraction is strong, broadly shared -- I am sure many take a daily excursion around it.

The Ringstraße replaced Vienna's obsolete city walls and moats, which dated back to the 13th century. Measuring 500m wide, the walls were reinforced as a consequence of Turkish assaults which began in the first half of the 16th century. The Ringstraße and its planned buildings, parks, were meant to showcase the grandeur of the Hapsburg Empire -- and perhaps rival the wide boulevard construction which had begun in Paris. The architectural examples are splendid -- neo-classic, neo-gothic, neo-renaissance, neo-baroque, neo-romantic.

For example, full of classic symbolism and an exquisite example of Greek Revival architecture, Austria's Parliament building is impressive. Its Athena Fountain, Pallas-Athene-Brunnen, is most captivating, as it is closest to the Ringstraße and its adjacent sidewalk. Characteristic of classical style, the fountain is full of symbolism, the four reclining figures below Athena (Goddess of Wisdom, holding Nike) represent the four major rivers of the old Austro-Hungarian Empire -- the Danube, Inn, Elbe, and Vlata.

An architectural movement of the late 18th and early 19th centuries, Greek Revival was the last phase of Neoclassical architecture. A product of Hellenism, a result of revived access to Greece (as well as the rise of archeology), Greek Revival took on different forms and styles in Europe -- most often in a craving for Greek style, interior design and furniture. As far as timing goes, Austria's Parliament is a rather late adaptation of Greek Revival. The building and  fountain were erected during the reign of Franz Joseph I, near the end of the Hapsburg dynasty (Parliament 1874-1883, Athena Fountain 1893-1902) .

El Tubo, Zaragoza

Zaragoza is where I discovered tapas. This was my first Spanish excursion and I was confronted with the usual conundrum of a "never-been-here-before" destination -- solved logically by exploring a city’s center. Follow the cobble stone, find a crowd, drift.

Fortunately, I did ask the hotel concierge for advice on where to get an introduction to Spanish cuisine. I’ve often wondered why he seemingly hesitated, taking an inordinate amount of time to look me over. (As a side note, here's a few tips on traveling sans nationale abroad). He simply said, "El Tubo," adding directions. "Go there and you will find that for which you seek." I was ignorant of the fact that El Tubo is a part of Zaragoza’s old centrum, though the taxi ride was enlightening.

After a few hours on foot, casually meandering in and out of tapas bar after tapas bar -- having no idea tapas are uniquely Spanish and tapas hopping is a Spanish tradition -- it dawned on me that in Spain, in Zaragoza, in El Tubo (or the Tube), tapas thrive.

The first El Tubo tapas bar I encountered offered chorizo, a spicy salami, with cheese. That’s it. Well, there were various breads. Aha -- here, each place has a specialty. Sure enough, the next one offered a selection of seafood. Calamari, oysters on the half shell, fried shrimp. Some were fried, breaded or not, others boiled. The next stop exposed a counter loaded with hard Spanish ham skewered to chunks of melon -- boiled eggs, pickled eggs -- and small slices of an omelet baked with chunks of embedded fried potatoes. And so it went. Exploring, questioning, sampling -- onward.

Several locals were kind enough to fill me in on the history of tapas. The original tapas were slices of bread or meat which sherry drinkers used to cover their glasses from annoying fruit flies. From an etymological perspective, the noun tapa may have actually evolved from the verb tapar, "to cover." And since the meat typically used, ham or chorizo, is salty, thirst is encouraged. Legend has it that proprietors of public houses created various snacks to expand this phenomenon, increasing beverage sales. Spain’s climate and countless kitchens consummated the mix of olives, brought by the Romans. The Moors contributed fruits, almonds, spices. New World explorers retrieved and introduced beans, potatoes, tomatoes, corn, chili and sweet peppers. Eventually, the tapa became as important as drink itself.

Perhaps it is the physical dimensions of El Tubo which encourages conversation and movement. Each tapas bar had limited seating, if any at all. Mostly, it was standing room, inside and sometimes outside. Or maybe it is quality, variety and size of the cuisine -- sample, imbibe, mingle. Inside each tapa stop, patrons consumed, buzzed, hummed, as if participating in some obscure ritual of social pollination. Outside, the alley was vibrant, fluid -- alive with a steady current of laughing, talking pedestrians, some eating on the walk between stops. As I strolled, I was handed a glass. Apparently someone assumed it was my turn.

Stumbling onto a place like El Tubo comes at a price, for one loses yesterday and tomorrow -- there is only now.