Democracy in the East

I am not sure if it is reassuring that democracy finds its messy way when and wherever it is put into practice. Here, recent political commentary I witnessed in the Slovak Republic on a temporary construction zone wall.

"Voters, thank you, you are awesome"

(Note the references to the USSR)





Bratislava's Hydrofoil

Most westerners who visit the former Eastern Bloc, skirting behind what was once known by Winston Churchill's tag as the Iron Curtain, expect to see a good degree of Soviet influence. That influence is rapidly fading as many of the former Warsaw Pact countries are now a part of NATO and the European Union. Yes, modernizing quickly to western standards.

However, there are a few surviving remnants. One of these, which daily navigates the Danube River between Bratislava and Vienna, is the Rocket Speedboat, a vintage Soviet-era built hydrofoil. Its labors originate at the Personal Ship Port at Bratislava's Fajnorovo Nabrezie Embankment and arrive at the Schiffstation Reichsbruecke at Handelskal 265. It's a 105 minute upstream journey from Bratislava to Vienna and a 90 minute downstream return (information, schedule and booking www.lod.sk).

Once observed, you'll immediately recognize the Soviet styling and the Soviet disregard for aesthetics -- in this case an absolute abundance of noise.

Ganymede's Fountain

I have lost track of how many disappointing travel tales I've encountered over the years, the retelling of an American's awful experience in Europe. Yes, there are similarities and differences -- the good, the bad, the ugly. No doubt we all have our own values and tastes -- and though Europe is different, I'm glad to be back on "the continent", to once again observe and partake.

Although, I must admit it is easy to miss the small things. I know of the Slovak National Theater and Opera House in Bratislava and have walked by it and its fountain many times. On this pleasant August day, I meandered a bit near the fountain -- trying to decide where and how to spend the afternoon -- and for the first time really paid attention to the theater's façade and its fountain.

The Slovak National Theater's Ganymede Fountain is a welcoming sight and I wonder if this is what its creator had in mind. He or she was a native Bratislavan and the fountain was sculpted sometime after the construction of the building began in 1885. Though I find Greek mythology rather disheveled, with alternate stories and interpretations, I do recall Ganymede's role as a symbol of eternal youth, immortality and the official cup bearer to the gods.

Perhaps in this time and place, Ganymede and his fountain are a symbol of local hospitality. Unfortunately, Bratislava is not favorably reviewed as are a Prague, Budapest or Vienna -- and it is often bypassed for more famed destinations.  It is a bit of a shame as there is a unique environment in Bratislava and most do not realize the area was once a favorite Hapsburg retreat.

I sense that subtle beckoning is still here, scattered about in small doses, awaiting discovery -- Ganymede's enduring gift. I certainly feel at ease to loiter here.

Le Cours Saleya

In Europe, one can find a public market in just about every village, town or city. Size does matter though when it comes to markets. The busy market in Nice, France, the Cours Saleya Flower Market, is no exception. Cours Saleya is a wonderful cornucopia of ripe produce, meats, nuts, spices, cheeses, breads and flowers. It is bordered by sidewalk cafés, souvenir, antique and art shops. Numerous streets, narrowly flanked by centuries-old pastel buildings, funnel locals and tourists into and out of the market.

The Cours Saleya is located at the heart of Nice's old town and it sits one block inland from the Quai des Etats-Unis, the renowned boulevard that parallels the vivid, blue waters of the Mediterranean Sea. Its present form and venue has been maintained for at least a century; and it has been the site of market activities since the Roman era. Cours Saleya opens early every day (6am-5pm) and it's a constant hive of activity, Tuesday through Sunday. On Mondays it transforms itself into a flea and antiques market.

On my first visit, I had to walk the entire market, end-to-end, just to get a grasp of its size and to assess if, when and how to shop Cours Saleya. My first impression was literally a blurred collage of market bustle. The aisles were a constant stream of locals and tourists. Yes, one can almost always pick out the tourists. Shuffling, gazing. Determined locals were squeezing in to size up goods -- touching, asking, selecting, paying. Vendors were pointing, explaining, weighing, calling for resupply. Children scattered about -- running, laughing, crying. Custodians sweeping, carrying away trash. Amongst the mix, Romas panhandling. Dogs barking. Produce and goods as far as I could see. Up close, I was particularly struck by the amount and variety of spices, peppers, and olives. And I could sense bartering, haggling -- intensifying as the day grew long.

At the far east end of the Cours Saleya, stands a large, impressive yellow house, the Palais Cais de Pierlas (1782). Address, No. 1. Although the building appears to be in disrepair, it seems quite fitting. For from here, looking out of his third floor window, Henri Matisse painted various views of the Baie des Anges. Therefore, the brilliant sights and sounds of Nice's market are most appropriate. And within the Palais's daylight shadows, the surrounding restaurants and cafés make a perfect vantage point from which to mentally paint imagines of Nice's strolling, shopping pedestrians.

At night, crowds take refuge in the ambiance of the Cours Saleya's numerous surrounding eateries. Day or night, the Cours Saleya is a relaxing, unique place to simply sit, chat. Sip cappuccino, espresso. Explore Nicois cuisine. It also beckons one to wander. Not just anywhere. Here.

Not all who wander are lost.

St. Stephen's Cathedral

Numerous times I have roamed inside, outside, and underneath St. Stephen’s Cathedral in Vienna, Austria. (Yes, there are catacombs beneath which date back to the era of the Black Plagues which devastated Europe -- and Vienna for that matter -- throughout the 14th century.) For the dedicated and patient observer, this religious icon has an overabundance of stories to tell.

St. Stephen's Cathedral (Stephansdom in German), the dominant structure of Vienna and her Stephansplatz, is more than a cathedral -- she is an enduring grand matriarch, for centuries hosting the seat of the Archbishop of Vienna and his Archdiocese. Given her Romanesque and Gothic prowess, St. Stephen's is a living monument not only to historic periods but to specific historic events.

St. Stephen’s was initiated primarily by Rudolph IV, one of the initial progenitors of the Habsburg dynasty. (Termed centuries later by historians as the Holy Roman Empire, did this unique family consider themselves either holy or Roman? Such questions fuel the engines which drive late night reading and debate.) It stands on the ruins of at least two earlier churches, the first being a parish church consecrated in the mid-12th century. Archaeological evidence suggests it stands on the site of a Roman cemetery, implying the site has had some form of religious significance for at least 2000 years -- if not longer.

By the way, Marcus Aurelius passed away in Vienna. His son Commodus was present and the dead Caesar was quickly cremated and deified. Could this act of ancient Roman pomp and circumstance have occurred on or near the site of the present cathedral? We’ll never know. We do know his ashes found their way back to and remained in Rome until it was sacked in 410 by the Visigoths -- lost forever to eternity.

Arguably, Stephansdom is a living monument to the evolution of at least a part of Christianity in Europe, albeit a millennium after the birth, death and resurrection of Christ. Its initial dedication was witnessed by German nobles who were departing on the Second Crusade; it also was the site of a rallying sermon to muster a later crusading effort to defend Christian Europe from Muslim invaders. (The Theresian Military Academy's chapel, just south of Vienna, contains Holy Land relics brought by returning crusaders.)

Perhaps ironically, St. Stephen's also served as the main watch tower and military command post for the defense of Fortress Vienna during both sieges by the Ottoman Turks (1529, 1683). Congratulations, Prince Eugene of Savoy, ye who liberated central Europe from 150 years of Ottoman occupation -- implications of which still surface as Turkey pursues European Union membership. Is not Austria's reluctance to accept Turkey's overtures to Europe then understandable? Outside the cathedral there is an 18th century statue depicting St. Francis triumphantly trampling a defeated Turk. Oh my. Did anyone bother to clear this with the founding Franciscan?

Later, as a few German nobles and their men were leaving Vienna in the spring of 1945, St. Stephen’s was ordered destroyed, to be left “in just debris and ashes”. Providence, however, was manifest in the form of an officer who refused to follow these orders -- due to either his reverent upbringing or a simple, honest intellect. Again, we'll never really know. Unfortunately, the cathedral's roof did collapse, alight, though most of its internal treasures were spared. Flames had spread from nearby shops and torched St. Stephen's roof, started by civilian looters during the interlude between fleeing German troops and advancing Russian forces.

It is interesting how Vienna managed to spare most of its historic icons during the war -- Eugene of Savoy's massive statue at Heldenplatz was encased in brick to avoid damage from Allied bombing raids; Fredrick III's sarcophagus inside St. Stephan’s was also provided such protection. Someone was apparently aware that intentional human destruction permeates and dominates the world's historical record.

St. Stephen's is also a cultural casserole -- over time various local influences have left their mark, such as common modern graffiti. Building stones from unknown Roman structures were used and are visible in the oldest parts of the cathedral (the two Roman towers and the west wall). Over the main entrance to the church, the Giant’s Door (Riesentor), there once hung a mastodon bone. (Where did that come from?) A zodiac adorns the main facade. There are official measuring standards, used during the Middle Ages to set local standards for merchants, embedded in the external walls. The cathedral's largest and main bell was cast from captured Ottoman cannons. And the handrail of the stairway leading up to the stone pulpit is adorned with biting lizards and toads, symbolizing the struggle of good against evil. At the top, a dog guards those that are in place to preach. (I'm still trying to sort through the numerous symbols found in St. Stephen's -- to include the grim skeletal representations apparently borne of the bleak plague period.) St. Stephen's was also Mozart's parish church at the end of his life -- he was married, two of his children were baptized, and his funeral was conducted here. He also served as an adjunct parish music director.

Christendom’s cathedrals are historic and best placed in context. In my opinion, St. Stephen's is one of the best. Grasping historic context, however, is a tremendous challenge. As I have often sat in a St. Stephen's pew, I am occasionally drawn to reflect upon the meaning and context of Jesus' 1st century pronouncement of the Kingdom of Heaven -- and the enduring theological, political and cultural struggles between those who accept, reject or reinterpret Jesus' core message.

For me, St. Stephen's is a complex, physical manifestation of this ongoing social phenomenon. I highly recommend you give exploring this cathedral a "go".

Seek and ponder historical context.

La Boqueria

I make it a point to visit a European market place every chance I get. Obviously in larger cities, there are often more than one. Barcelona's most popular market is the market of Saint Joseph, or La Boqueria.

My first impression was this has to be one of the Europe's busiest living monuments. Its interesting 19th century architecture, a structure of glass and iron, creates an environment in which one knows he or she can find just about anything. Or at least wander, loiter and enjoy trying.

La Boqueria is situated halfway between Plaza Cataluyna, Barcelona's main travel hub, and its port. The massive amounts of fresh seafood are just a pronouncement of locale -- this is Spain and the Mediterranean is close. Today's catch abounds -- partake. It is also located along the pedestrian corridor, Las Ramblas, where one can witness a variety of shops, to include street performers. For tourists.

The uniqueness of La Boqueria is while most locals seem to avoid the tourist-oriented Las Ramblas, they frequent La Boqueria. This is an authentic, functional market with side and back alley entrances. Convenient, essential, fascinating.

This is another European market one should not miss. It truly is a separate world unto itself.

Vajdahunyad Castle

As is often the case, the origins of a landmark defy observation. I encountered Vajdahunyad Castle in City Park, Budapest, Hungary, and it appeared well-placed and historical. But the true story behind this structure is it was originally constructed from wood and cardboard for a millennial exhibition in 1896. Its success at the exhibition and its increasing popularity resulted in its reconstruction in stone and brick.

Further, it is a reasonable copy of a castle in Transylvania, Romania, also called Vajdahunyad.

Red Bull's Hangar-7

Across from the passenger terminal at Salzburg's airport sit two unique structures -- Hangar-7 and Hangar-8. A part of the Red Bull Energy Drink Empire. Here resides the Flying Bulls' collection of aircraft from the great eras of aviation. They are on display in Hangar-7. Their maintenance facility is Hangar-8.


A good portion of this historic and operational collection consists of a Douglas DC-6, Yugoslavia’s Air Force One, used by Marshal Tito; a North American B-25 Mitchell Bomber; a Chance Vought F4U-4 Corsair; a North American T-28 Trojan; an Alpha Jet; a Cessna CE 208 Caravan; and several different types of helicopters.


Hangar-7 is more than just architecturally pleasing aircraft hangar. It is shaped like a wing and its model had to pass a wind tunnel test prior to construction. Hangar-7 also houses an art gallery, meeting space for events, a restaurant and several bars, lounges and cafés. One of the lounges, the 360, is tucked into the ceiling of Hangar-7 and has a very transparent, glass floor. For me, it was quite an awkward sensation. And the restaurant, Ikarus, features top chefs from around the world who literally take over the kitchen for a month at a time.


When in Salzburg, Austria, don't miss a visit to Hangar-7.

Graffiti, Warszawa

I have converted to the view that street art, despite its critics, is a product of refined intellect, combined with skilled execution. Street art demands detailed planning, speed. Social commentary beyond the norms. Despite its quality, Spain does not have a lock on street art. Check out these I came across in Warsaw.

Flea Market Sofia

In an area in front of Sofia's Saint Alexander Nevsky Cathedral there is a daily flea market. It is quite a sight to behold.

Over the years I have become a devout attendee and shopper. Religious icons. Greek, Roman and Byzantine coins -- some real, some fake. Relics from the two world wars. If one looks closely, there certainly are a tremendous amount of left overs from a specific German u-boat. Fakes? Old cameras. Long forgotten utensils. And then there are Warsaw Pact era memorabilia. Uniforms, hats, medals, binoculars. Miniature bronze busts of Lenin, Stalin.

Fascinating, but buyer beware -- that must have been one large u-boat, with so much memorabilia left behind. In landlocked Sofia.