Side Streets Bratislava

Bratislava Castle, Redeux

Castles are not supposed to change colors, or at least that is what I had always assumed. Though, I am often mistaken, as I witness the ever present effects of change, this time in the form of Bratislava's castle (Bratislavský hrad), on the hill above the old city and the Danube River.

So I should not be surprised that the castle is now a shade of white? Biely.

Svatopluk I now greets castle visitors.

In addition to the castle's color change, a new statue has appeared as well, a figure from the region's past -- way past, back to the late 9th century. (Svatopluk I was an early medieval Moravian ruler.) And even the statue, though rather new, has undergone a bit of cosmetic surgery. Of course there is a story behind the color change and re-ornamentation, which goes beyond simple restoration. And it proves a lively discussion, if one chooses to casually broach the topic. It is a complex tale and I am sure I have not been able to grasp the entire scope of the forces at work or play, for this or broader issues -- the ever present, ever active active social, cultural, political currents which permeate human endeavors everywhere.

Perhaps the castle redeux is just that -- a hint of latent nationalism, fidgeting beneath the surface.

Bratislava Castle, before its reconstruction.