Tuesday, November 1, 2011

Bratislava Castle, Redeux

Castles are not supposed to change colors, or at least that is what I had always assumed. Though, I am often mistaken, as I witness the ever present effects of change, this time in the form of Bratislava's castle (Bratislavský hrad), on the hill above the old city and the Danube River.

So I should not be surprised that the castle is now a shade of white. Biely.

Svatopluk I now greets castle visitors.
In addition to the castle's color change, a new statue has appeared as well, a figure from the region's past -- way past, back to the late 9th century. (Svatopluk I was an early medieval Moravian ruler.) And even the statue, though rather new, has undergone a bit of cosmetic surgery. Of course there is a story behind the color change and re-ornamentation, which goes beyond simple restoration. And it proves a lively discussion, if one chooses to casually broach the topic. It is a complex tale and I am sure I have not been able to grasp the entire scope of the forces at work or play, for this or broader issues -- the ever present, ever active active social, cultural, political currents which permeate human endeavors everywhere.

Perhaps the castle redeux is just that -- a hint of latent nationalism, fidgeting beneath the surface.

Bratislava Castle, before its reconstruction.

2 comments:

Anonymous said...

Are they copying the White House, which is painted sandstone--about the same tone as this one?

Interesting indeed . . .

Kim

M said...

No, I don't think so. I heard many opinions about the color, none related to the White House. I sensed more of a debate between good restoration and dressing historical artifacts "well" as a show of national pride. If you look closely at the third story in the before and after photos, you'll see that more of the underlying Gothic structure is exposed for viewing (perhaps a victory for those concerned with accurate history) -- a nice touch to how the castle must have looked prior to its last major structural renovation (the one presented here being a mere redecoration, in my opinion). Further, I was a bit disappointed that none of the interior was open for viewing. And a previously open well, at the west end of the interior courtyard was boarded over, closed, though one on the east end was open and visible -- shallower and not nearly as spectacular. The former I had previously viewed was very deep and appeared to reach down to the water level of the Danube -- a good 200-300'. It was illuminated at the water's surface for viewing and gauging depth. It will be a shame if it is not open in the future as one gets the sensation of medieval fortress defense during a seige, and the necessity for provisions, including a good source for water -- which this well obviously could provide.